Another option is that you could build a separate mobile table and pull it around to the back when you need to use it.I am getting ready to build this table, I got all the materials today. I got my table saw used and it didn’t come with a fence or an thing like a fence. If you decide to go with a different size, you can always just adjust the little shelf to fit your saw. I’ve checked and double checked that I made all the cuts. For each notch, make several cuts no more than 1/8 in. wider than your plywood. Thanks for bringing that to my attention!I bought 11 and only used 9! I know the paid version of Sketchup includes “layout” which would allow me to export to pdf, but a free option would be great at this point.If the top frame with legs had a size 38″ maximum width how is a 36″ x 73″ table top going to sit over it or am I missing something (30″ short frame width) + (2″longest frame left side) + (2″ longest frame right ) + (2″ left leg) (2″ right leg) = 38″ width at widest point Also 2′ 9″ is 34.5″ and there is no peice you specify to cut this length, long frame piece is 33″ which leaves you short slightly on the table saw shelfThank you for the questions.
But I’m not on Instgram. Then glue and nail the supports (E2) to the inner sides of the struts.Cut the small plywood parts (F1 – F6) as shown in Figure A. In regards to the second question, I’m not really sure what you mean. Instead of building it from scratch in sketchup, I thought I’d see if you already had it available. Countersink the screws so they won’t get in the way. Simply flip the bench over, move the new top frame into place, make sure everything is sitting flat on the ground, and attach the legs to the frame. Screw the two 1x4s together and then evenly space the braces and screw them to each 1×4.
This leaves a large opening for the sawdust. Just built this today, although a slightly bigger version.
Unfortunately, I don’t have a downloadable version of this plan. !Glad it worked out well for you! Use a jigsaw to cut the section for your table saw out of the table top. Attach the 2×4 feet to the legs with 2 1/2″ screws. Or did you just attach one 2×4 at a time to the frame to give you the leg design?If you joined the legs together prior to attaching them to the frame, what size screws did you use?I just attached the legs straight to the frame and then drove a few screws through the front and back legs into the narrow side of the 2×4 legs on the sides to hold them together. You could attach the legs together before attaching them to the frame, but I just found it easier to attach them straight to the frame first. The back, part C, can remain the same as in our plan.
Thanks !! I assembled the frame upside down to get top frame flush with the tops of the legs. I have the same table saw and just wanted to make sure.I situated the table saw so there’s a little gap behind it to move the fence around or take it on and off. Attach the side legs to the bottom frame with 2 1/2″ screws. Wish me luck. The bottom of the frame should sit flush with the bottom of the legs.Attach the front and back legs to the frame and side legs with 2 1/2″ screws. )Just a note that you don’t have the JigSaw listed in the Tools/Supplies section but it’s needed to cut the notch for the Table Saw.Easy instructions. Sometimes I don’t calculate the exact most efficient cuts.
Two hour build.
I ended up building a custom fence system for the craftsman table saw that I had. This “play” in the notch makes for easy setup and knockdown and still gives sufficient rigidity. Cut two 1x4s to the same length as the left side of the top. I finally got my table saw today and it fits in perfect. To get clean holes, start the holes from one side, then, as soon as the pilot bit emerges through the opposite side, remove the drill and finish the hole from the other side.With the whole project complete, I rounded the edges of the parts with a 3/8-in. They’re the “feet” for the bottom of the legs so you have something to attach the casters to.
Cut out thin strips of plywood with a sharp chisel and smooth the bottom of the notch with a file.Nail a strip of wood to a scrap of plywood or OSB, 12-1/2 in. From the leftovers, you'll have more than enough scrap to cut the struts, supports and feet, plus any trays you choose to build.We used hardwood plywood (oak).
I’ll have to look into possibilities to do that though. You could cut a section out of the shelf so there’s room to attach something for sawdust collection (or just let the sawdust fall out)Wait, what happened? Will be building it soon. On the material list it shows 10 2′ 7 1/2″ is the same as 31 1/2″.
Then go into to ShetchUp, load your plans, and choose the option to print. I used the original box that the tablesaw came. If you're fussy about setup, you can shim under each foot to dial in the exact height.After adapting parts A and B, you can use the Cutting List found in “Additional Information” below to cut the other parts. Complete DIY projects like a pro! Based on your cuts for the bigger top and bottom shelf, I don’t see enough leftover to make a 33″ x 18 1/4″ single square for your table saw shelf? So the total width of the frame is 30″ + 1.5″ + 1.5″ + 1.5″ + 1.5″ = 36″. lag screws with washers. Got a new table saw that needs a home.I want to be able to use the entire workbench without the table saw. Just a question for a complete beginner…What is the blade diameter for your table saw? Thanks for drawing that to my attention and sorry about the inconvenience!I can’t wait to build this. Another way to think about it is that the short frame boards are 30″ and you attach a 2×4 on either end for the long frame boards, so that gives you a total of 30″ + 1.5″ + 1.5″ = 33″. The explanation about how US lumber is not actually 2″x 4″ and rather 1. Did you join the legs together first before attaching them to the frame? Thank you for letting me know – I hope you can find a use for the extra boards!The above is an interesting tutorial. I have Rockwell portable table saw vs your ryobiHmmm … not sure what’s going on with that. Would you suggest using 2×4’s under the top?
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