along with the opinion of Lee in Iowa that has left his successor instinct adult worms in the environment for future safe temperature with no spikes. . In the case of Red Worms, cocoons can have more than one worm in them (the average is supposed to be 3 in fact).
A little while ago one of our readers, Mario, sent me an email asking how he could get some Red Worm cocoons to hatch. Red Worms tend to breed a lot as temperatures drop, so presumably the number of cocoons would be increasing at this time. also how big is a mature worm normally.I have 3 bins (RM style) and Red wigglers. The worms would be eating the microorganisms that are eating the bad seeds.is greg’s ? I suggested adding them to some moistened bedding (shredded cardboard, newsprint etc), and then adding a small amount of food waste (I suggested an apple core, I believe).

Sorry to have pummeled you with questions. Those that think they r need to be corrected worms do not metamorph into something else.We raise rabbits for meat and are ready to combine our rabbit poop and kitchen scraps with worm composting. They tend to transition from a light straw color to a fairly dark brown.

cyndiel ouinteresting post, thanks to you all, I agree with Chuk. I want to see if cold temperatures can stimulate cocoon hatching, but I am also curious to see if the presence of some cantaloupe rinds will make a difference. Forgot to say, had to take out the apple core after a few weeks, was getting loaded with does white little creatures.Okay, so I’m not adding to the hatching part here, but have noticed some things about egg-laying that are interesting (to me, at least). ).One thing I’ve noticed in my own systems is that periods of cold, and then warming seems to really increase hatching rates – a prime example of course would be in the spring time, when loads of baby worms start appearing in outdoor beds. You will receive a new password via e-mail. I can never find … an egg. Is it some sort of professional courtesy, or do seeds have a coating with something that signals the worms not to eat it? (If you’ve been afraid to add nutshells, hickory shells work fine; they soften up completely in the worm bin.) )Oh, and has anyone else noticed that the worms will eat darn near anything–except seeds?! after the third day I put a little (2 inch) to those half-finished compost, we were lucky about where I live in Java, there are many farms and farm worms. Hopefully we will see some interesting results, and learn a thing or two along the way!Out of curiosity, how are you handling the variability in the age of the cocoons?Age of cocoons may be estimated by their colouration.I love the 2 x 2 design. This first experiment is a bit of a combo deal. wonder what temp is actually optimal. In case you can’t tell, I think you know everything :).About 3 weeks ago I pulled some “finished” compost out of the bottom of one of my bins. I don’t know, but my vermicompost is all the time sprouting tomatoes and squash!Okay, so I’m not adding to the hatching part here, but have noticed some things about egg-laying that are interesting (to me, at least). I asked Bentley about the bin setup so the cocoons would hatch faster, as you all know he came with the idea of using an apple core. I assume not need a new intake. Do they have a clitellum?Jeremiah…, I mix the rotten banana weevil (old and blackened), may make it comfortable coolness of banana weevil and egg-layingI have three fiberglass worm bins with the leachate catch at the bottom each are 4×8 feet and I started with 10 lbs of worms in each one.
let me know if I can help with the data analyses.ANNA – As vermiman pointed out, you can get some sense for the age of the cocoon based on the coloration. I have tons of worms iv filled each bin with over a foot and a half of material as they ate it all down. If you have any ideas/suggestions, be sure to add a comment!I will of course write about this again once I have my first test(s) up and running.Is it known how permeable the cocoons are? The cover of the cocoon soon becomes thick and protects the eggs and sperm.. about worms eggs i had an older man told me that if i touch the eggs with my bear hands that the eggs will not hatch he said that the worm has to come and rub there body over the eggHi everybody!!! I want to see if cold … It was a whole week later that that particular cocoon was vacated.I read that redworms take 28-30 days to mature with a lifecyle of 45-51 days. I can’t wait to learn how best to multiply the breed! i was looking for castings so i could see them in real life and i saw what appeared to me to be baby cockroach eggs i smsahed a couple before i thought these could be something related to the worm i wasnt familiar with. Worm Hatching and Red Wiggler Worm Eggs (Cocoons) - YouTube I often mix in leaves from my back yard, where there’s a hickory tree. But everything is going well, can even see many castings. does this also stop other insects that need to be inside? Do you have a thermometer to record fridge and room temperature? After about three weeks, each cocoon generally hatches between two and 20 baby earthworms. In future experiments I will vary the length of the “cold spell” to see if that has an impact as well.As you can probably tell, there are LOADS of potential variables to play around with here, so I may end up conducting these experiments for quite some time! My last batch that I harvested (few weeks ago) had an enormous amount of cocoons. )Oh, and has anyone else noticed that the worms will eat darn near anything–except seeds?! After adding the apple coir in 2 weeks there were like more then 12 little born ones, and today I was checking the mega mini bin, and I already have 6 red wigglers, there already red in color, and the others are following, I also have all the cocoon, very dark brown and today I saw a few new born ones. (These are quarter-pieces, broken open by squirrels. Today I spent some time collecting Red Worm cocoons (from some material I harvested from one of my outdoor beds) for my first worm cocoon hatching experiment. My idea is that the grown-ups are taking a chance, going off to a new environment, but they need to be sure their colony (or species) survives, so they lay eggs in the old, known-to-be-safe environment before they go.Secondly, I’ve noticed a marked tendency to lay clutches of eggs in “safe” places, sheltered but with tiny edibles nearby. I couldn’t believe it, there we thousands of little worms all through the stuff.


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